How do I know when a building is dry?
A building is dry when the moisture readings in the floor, the wall and the framing return to the level of a dry reference reading. Visual signs such as a dry-looking surface are not enough, because moisture can stay in the materials below the finish.
The technician uses a moisture meter and compares each reading with the dry reference taken in an unaffected part of the building. Readings are taken at several points in each room, because one dry spot does not mean the room is dry. The crew records the numbers on each visit.
Drying can look finished from the room while the wall cavity is still wet. That is why the crew checks the cavities where the readings stayed high. Once every layer reads dry, the equipment comes out and the record is given to the owner.
Why does drying take days when the water was removed in an hour?
Water that has soaked into wood, insulation and plaster leaves slowly, and the air in the room can hold only so much moisture at a time. Drying speed depends on the materials, the air and how much water they took up.
Removing the free water takes an hour or two. Removing the water that is held inside a floor or a wall is slower, because it has to move out of the material and into the air, and the air has to be dried before it can take more. Thick framing, plaster and insulation hold water for longer than a thin finish does.
Humid days slow the drying, and so do closed windows and doors. The crew cannot change the weather, but it can change the equipment, the airflow and the schedule, and the readings show how much progress each change makes.
Can I run my own fans and a dehumidifier?
A household fan or a dehumidifier can help a little, but it does not replace structural drying, and it can push moisture into areas that were dry. If you run equipment, keep the fans pointed away from dry rooms, and empty the dehumidifier regularly.
Household equipment is designed for a room, not for the framing and cavities of a building. Placing a fan in the wrong spot can drive moisture into a dry area, and that can cause new damage. The crew uses equipment sized and placed for the readings, and it moves the equipment as the drying changes.
If you have equipment running before the crew arrives, keep it running, and do not switch it off to save power without asking. Tell the crew what was running and where, because it changes how the readings are read.
What does the drying cost, and how is it set?
Lafayette Water Damage Restoration does not publish a price for structural drying. The cost depends on how much material is wet, how deep the moisture went, how many rooms are involved and how many visits the drying needs. The price is explained and approved on site before any equipment is set.
Each drying plan is different, so a price given on the phone would not reflect the building. The crew measures the moisture, counts the rooms and the materials, and explains the plan and the expected visits. The owner decides whether to approve it.
Equipment and visits are the main parts of the work. The crew explains what each part is for, and it does not add equipment that the readings do not call for. The final invoice follows the plan you approved.
What happens to plaster and trim during drying?
Plaster, trim and paint are sensitive to moisture and to fast drying, and they can crack, lift or swell. The crew dries them slowly and assesses them after the framing reads dry, and it records any damage it finds.
Plaster can crack as it dries if the air is too hot or too fast, so the crew keeps the drying gentle in rooms with plaster. Trim may swell and then settle, and it may need to be removed and reset. The owner is told which pieces are affected and what is planned for each.
Paint that has bubbled over wet drywall often needs to be removed or repaired once the surface is dry. That repair is not part of the drying itself, and the crew explains what comes after the drying so the owner can plan for it.